Couture 101


Couture Has Nothing To Do with Being Juicy

 

 

The first thing most of us think about when we hear the word couture is Juicy.  Juicy couture is not actually couture clothing.  In fact they just named themselves couture without the actual required approval.

To obtain the actual approval and to be included in the very exclusive list of haute couture designers you first need to follow a few rules to be considered.


  • Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings. 
  • Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
  • Must have twenty full-time technical people in at least one atelier (workshop).
  • Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising of at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear. 

If you were a part of this group you would be considered a grand couturier which means you are  a member of the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture (list of "real" couture designers) 
and you have been a member for a min of 2 years.

This group was created in 1868 by the "father of haute couture" Charles Frederick Worth.  

Charles is actually the name that should be synonymous with couture.  Charles Worth was the originator of "haute couture" or "high sewing"

Charles was born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, on October 13, 1825.   

Not much seems to be said about Charles education other than he seemed to have a passion for the arts and you would often find him hanging out at the National Gallery studying historic portraits where he would later find his inspiration for his own designs. 

Charles Frederick Worth
As a young man he gained experience working with two London textile merchants.  Charles found ultimately found himself supplying dressmakers with beautiful textiles and learning all about the business of dressmaking. 

Charles relocated to Paris in 1845-1846 where he started out as a salesman for  Gagelin the well known Parisian Drapers .  While working for this shop he married 
one of the firms models Marie Vernet.  

Marie would model shawls and bonnets for customers.  When Charles started making dresses for his wife many of the customers started asking for copies of the dresses.  He worked his way up and eventually opened a small dressmaking department within the company.  His designs were prize winning and gained much notoriety displayed in the Great Exhibition in London (1851) and the Exposition Universelle in Paris (1855) causing Charles to ultimately partner up and open his own shop (1858). 

After opening the new business soon Charles found himself designing for the French Empress Eugenie and after that came many more rich and titled women.  He was known for dressing royalty as well as red carpet royalty.  Mr. Worth would provide his patrons with luxurious materials and meticulous fit.  Charles Worth and his partner Bobergh shut down their business during the Franco-Prussian War.  

Charles reopened his shop as the House of Worth on his own in 1871 and took in his sons, Gaston (founder of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture) and Jean-Philippe under his wing and into his business.    Charles Worth was so much in demand and sought after that he literally had to turn business away which only made the demand for his designs that much greater.  The couture house continued to grow and flourish after his death in 1895.

Charles was the first haute couture designer to add labels to his designs.



Charles Frederick Worth the original "haute couture" designer


Worth known for lavish textiles, metallic thread, crystal beads, and fine attention to detail  Photo Source: Met Museum

Made in Paris, France, Europe
c. 1886-87
Designed by Charles Frederick Worth, English (active Paris), 1825 - 1895. Worn by Mrs. Ernest Fenollosa. Photo Source: Philadelphia Museum of Art
Fancy dress costume, ca. 1870
Charles Frederick Worth (French, born England, 1825–1895)
Cream and blue silk taffeta, gold metallic, white silk tulle Photo Source: Met Museum 

Evening dress, ca. 1887
Charles Frederick Worth (French, born England, 1825–1895)
Silk, glass, metallic thread

Evening dress, 1892
House of Worth (French, 1858–1956)
Silk, crystal, metallic threads
From collection of St Edmundsbury Borough Council Moyse's Hall Museum
Dress designed by Charles Frederick Worth for Elisabeth of Austria painted by Franz Xaver WinterhalterEmpress Elisabeth of Austria in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars 1865 oil on canvas

Sources: Wikipedia Forbes Met Museum 
Philadelphia Museum of Art


 


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